Saveur Magazine The Texas Issue

Saveur Magazine

To anyone familiar with Southwestern cuisine today, it almost sounds like a cliché: hickory-grilled catfish served atop a pool of smoked-pepper butter sauce with a black bean relish in a tomatillo husk. But back in 1984, when Chef Stephan Pyles introduced that dish at Routh Street Cafe, in Dallas, it came as nothing less that an epiphany…

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