Esquire Magazine
Twenty-two years ago, in the first installment of Esquire’s Best New Restaurants in America, we honored Routh Street Café in Dallas, owing to chef-partner Stephan Pyles’s wholly innovative “New Texas Cuisine.” In the decades since, Pyles has opened fourteen restaurants here and in other cities, although as time went on he cooked less and less. Eventually he took a five-year traveling sabbatical and has, apparently, returned as eager as ever to man the stoves…